For 48 long and terrifying hours, Hurricane Dorian–one of the strongest Atlantic hurricanes on record–pummeled the northwest islands of Abaco and Grand Bahama in The Bahamas. The aftermath was absolute devastation to homes, communities and habitats for wildlife including some of The Bahamas’ charismatic species like the Bahama Parrot, Bahama Nuthatch, Bahama Warbler and Bahama Swallow. Martha Cartwright and several birding companions once again visited the East End of Grand Bahama (GB) Island two and a half years after Dorian. The group documents the continued recovery of the wetlands, pine forests, birds, and people. It was also the first birding trip without Erika Gates, who passed away in December 2021. Martha reflects on loss, growth, renewal, and her hopes for the future.
It was a nostalgic visit, filled with conflicting emotions, infused with memories, and ultimately, inspired by new seeds of hope in the wake of the devastation of Hurricane Dorian.
Dorian destroyed much of the north side and the east end of Grand Bahama in September 2019. One month later six members of Grand Bahama Island Birders (GBIB) went east to document the habitat destruction and count birds. I wrote a BirdsCaribbean blog about that trip with Bridget Davis, Erika Gates, Gena Granger, and Delores Kellman. We submitted eBird lists for five locations. After Hurricane Dorian, An Emotional Birding Trip on Grand Bahama – BirdsCaribbean
One year later the same team returned to the same five locations and again documented the trip with a BirdsCaribbean article and eBird submissions. Emotions Renewed: Birding on Grand Bahama, One Year After Hurricane Dorian – BirdsCaribbean
When it was time for a third survey in October 2021, our mentor, Erika Gates, was in Germany having treatment for cancer. We chose to wait for her return. Her enthusiastic and engaging love of birding and her knowledgeable guidance were the bedrock of our surveys. We did not know then that when she came home in November, she would not regain her strength nor her stamina. Erika passed away on December 14, 2021.
When Lisa Sorenson and Jennifer Wheeler of BirdsCaribbean visited for Erika’s Memorial Service on February 24, 2022, Delores and I decided to take them out East to see the five sites listed on our previous surveys. We were missing four of our original survey team. Gail Woon, a photographer and founder of Earth Care Bahamas, joined us. So, the makeup of “the team” had changed. Our route was different; due to COVID testing requirements for travel, we worked backwards, from Pelican Point to our original starting point, Owl’s Hole. Also, it was not the same time of the year. I took fewer pictures. Lisa did the recording for eBird. We did not wear masks when outside.
Simply put, it was not the same experience – but then, nothing ever is the same. If I found our first post-Dorian survey in October 2019 heart-breaking and difficult, I found this journey equally so – but for different reasons. I was missing Erika.
Large numbers of shorebirds on our southern shores are not a common sight. As usual, we found only a few Sanderlings and plovers. We were surprised and thrilled to discover an ephemeral wetland between the road and the beach, where we spotted Snowy Egrets, Great Egrets, Little Blue Herons, a Reddish Egret, and Yellowlegs. When I visited the site one month later, the water was gone and so were the birds.
Buttonwood and Mangroves are growing well along the side of the track road, creating a sheltered habitat for the birds. They also created a challenge for us to see and count the birds. As Lisa and Delores walked ahead of the car, we saw many large wading birds and Yellowlegs fly off to a more secluded area of the wetlands. It was wonderful to know that birds were back in the area. Lisa scrambled up on my trusty old car for a better look.
The desolate moonscape, scarred by hurricane and fire, is now covered with low scrub bush, ferns, thatch palms, vines, and flowers. With the rains, the lower floor of forest started growing almost immediately.
However, endless miles of dead pine tree trunks throughout East Grand Bahama still dominate the upward gaze. Winds have blown off the top smaller branches, and now the trunks stand like toothpicks as stark reminders of Dorian’s wrath and its long-term effect on the habitat.
There is good news about the pines; look closely and you will find an abundance of seedlings reaching for the sunlight. In our lifetime, this is the third growth of the Caribbean pine on Grand Bahama. The first growth was harvested commercially from 1955 through the 1970s. (Source: The Bahamian Pine Forest – EcoTings Bahamas). East of the Bridge, the second growth was flooded with Dorian’s wave of sea water. Although fire does not kill the pine, seawater over the roots does. Known as a fast-growing pine, these Caribbean pines on East Grand Bahama will take decades to reach maturity. Erika wrote eloquently of the loss of the pine forests in our second blog, “Emotions Renewed.”
This year we were happy to spot Palm Warblers, Prairie Warblers, and Common Yellowthroats in the lower shrubs. Pine top dwellers? None. Who knows if or when the sounds of the Pine Warbler, the Bahama Warbler (endemic to the Bahamas; found only in GB and Abaco) and Olive-Capped Warblers (found only in Grand Bahama and Abaco, and a few areas in Cuba) will return to the pine forests of East Grand Bahama? Will we ever again hear the Bahama Nuthatch? I doubt it; this little bird has not been seen on Grand Bahama since Dorian. Bruce Purdy commented during the last Christmas Bird Count, “You now have an extinct bird on your Life List.”
Beyond Loss: Towards Growth and Renewal
The forces of Nature feel no remorse. Death comes. With the proper conditions, life continues. A seed does not debate whether to grow or not to grow. A bird does not ponder, Shall I have a family this year? If it can woo a mate, find a safe place for its nest, and forage enough food, it raises a family. The sun rises, the moon sets, the Earth tilts into its seasons.
It is we humans that fall so far from the natural rhythms of nature. In our falling away, we choose to fill our minds and hearts with emotions of anger, greed, and short-sighted self-interest. We harbor emotions that wreak havoc and destruction on our neighbors, our lands, our seas, and the air that sustains us. We are changing the Planet. In our naïveté, we thought that Life on Earth would consist of endless cycles of abundance. And yet, there is the underbelly of habitat destruction, air pollution, toxic chemicals, and global warming threatening the plants and animals with whom we share Earth.
Despite everything, I believe profoundly in the good-will and intelligence of human beings working together to find a healthy and sustainable path into the future. There are legions of people devoted to and working for the health of Planet Earth.
One such person was my friend, our GBIB mentor, Erika Gates. She cared, and she was effective in the world. She shared generously her knowledge, her skills, her finances, and her time with people and organizations. She nurtured hundreds of people, of all ages. She was tender and compassionate for all creatures. In sharing her love of life, through her books and articles, through her classes, with her eco-tourism businesses, during myriad conferences and on fieldtrips, she was a force of renewal.
I found myself deeply sad on this journey east. I am sure all five of us had our memories of times with Erika and felt her legacy. I still bird with her on my shoulder.
We just never know how much time we have left to live. So, while you can, choose, choose to care. Choose to make a difference. Donate to an organization helping the planet. Hug a child or plant a tree. Be kind. Teach. Help organize a local birding group. Share. Look in on your neighbor. Put out water for the birds.
Erika lived a large and beautiful life. I know she will continue to be an inspiration for all of us who had the good fortune to know her.
Addendum by Lisa Sorenson: Our dear friend, Erika Gates, passed away on 14 December 2022 – we wrote about her incredible life and contributions to bird conservation and BirdsCaribbean here. Thank you to, Martha, for this heartfelt article about our trip out east. Jennifer Wheeler and I were most grateful to be in Grand Bahama for Erika’s beautiful Memorial Service and to be able to spend time with her beloved husband, Ed Gates, other family members, and many friends. We appreciated the chance to bird at all the places we visited with Erika and to make the birding trip out east with Martha, Delores, and Gail. It was good to see how the pine forest, wetlands, and other habitats are recovering and to celebrate Erika’s life together. We shared many funny stories and happy memories about Erika. Her generous spirit, love of birds, and passion for conservation will live on in all of us.
Erika’s Memorial Service is available for viewing at this YouTube link – I was honored to be able to say a few words about Erika at her service. And here is a link to the wonderful Memorial Service Booklet that her husband Ed created, providing some details about her remarkable life.
RELATED READING:
One comment
Comments are closed.